Not Your Mom’s Meatloaf
Jan 28, 2015 01:00PM
● By Dia
STOCK & BARREL PUTS A NEW TWIST ON OLD FAVORITES
Foodie Fellows, I’d like to present a new dining destination to add to your list of favorites: Stock & Barrel in Oak Cliff’s Bishop Arts District. It’s chef Jon Stevens first solo venture following his successful stint at Nosh Euro Bistro. Making other other high-profile stops in the Dallas dining world along the way (The Mercury, Aurora, Mignon and Neighborhood Services), chef Stevens was working on what would become Stock & Barrel while serving as the chef consultant for Mesero Miguel (which we reviewed in our April 2014 issue) owned by his mentor, Mico Rodriguez.
The restaurant faces Davis Street, and its dark steel and glass fa.ade glows with interior light hinting that something special lies behind the imposing raw steel door. After you walk in and your eyes adjust to the dim lighting, you see the bustling open kitchen to the right and pinpoint lighting above the tables. To your left you’ll notice a wall lined with booths set below mirrors backlit with LED lights. Located in the back, the bar area leads out to an enclosed patio. The look is industrial chic without the cold, sterile feel often associated with such spaces.
Chef Stevens has staffed his team with restaurant industry veterans who have experience stretching from New York’s famed Gramercy Tavern to the West Coast and even all the way to Europe. Chef Stevens’ menu consists of simple, pared-down recipes with each dish focused on a centerpiece ingredient, inventive preparations and beautiful presentation. You will likely see him in the kitchen, walking the floor or taking a break at the bar.
From the menu’s Share section, we ordered the crushed avocado toast, comprised of crushed avocado with crisped Spanish chorizo drizzled with a balsamic reduction. I only wish there would have been more on the plate! From the Vegetables section we selected the caramelized Brussels sprouts, truffled spaetzle and cheese, and the roasted butternut squash hot pot. The winners of this round were the Brussels sprouts and the butternut squash. The truffled spaetzle and cheese, a variation on mac and cheese, was good, but the other two dishes overshadowed it. The Brussels sprouts are flash fried and tossed with cilantro, scallions and a sweet chili sauce.
The hot pot contains tender cubed butternut squash with pear in a creamy bechamel sauce
topped with brie and bacon. We devoured this side dish and highly recommend it. From the wood grill we selected the most popular item, the wagyu meatloaf served over an onion and potato hash with bits of smoked bacon. This isn’t your mother’s meatloaf—it is tender, flavorful and cooked perfectly. We have also had the wagyu brisket burger, and while it is a solid choice, the meatloaf is the better of the two. We finished off the meal with what I believe is the best version of a bread pudding I have ever experienced. Pastry chef Tom Yuengling uses croissants to create this surprisingly delicate dish, which gives it a lighter. more buttery texture. It is served with a topping of butter caramel ice cream and salted English toffee.
Start to finish, Stock & Barrel offered the most complete and impressive dining experience I have had in the DFW area in the last year. The staff is passionate and knowledgeable, and contributed to an amazing night out.
As Southlake Style’s foodie fellow, James is passionate about discovering unique dining experiences in the DFW area by night while crafting high impact marketing strategies by day as founder of Audacious Think. A native Oklahoman, he now considers the hometown of his beloved Dallas Cowboys to be his own as well. Follow James on Instagram or Twitter: @james_a_reid