There's a new restaurant in town, and it has a message: It's time forbrTexas food to get back to its roots, y'all. Newly opened in April, LAWbrRestaurant at the Four Seasons Resort and Club in Las Colinas is an acronym forbrland, air and water. Here you'll find fresh meats, poultry and seafood from localbrranches, farms and fisheries. Nothing is flown in from other states—it's just authenticbrTexas food for hungry Texans.
LAW is the resort's new signature restaurant, replacing Café on the Green.brTouted as a “bold taste of Texas using the finest ingredients sourced from thebrLone Star State,” the restaurant features a charming and robust menu. But don'tbrexpect standard chicken-fried steak and barbecue. Instead, think inventivebrdishes with Texas flavor and flair.
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (as any good hotel restaurant shouldbrbe), along with a Sunday brunch, LAW offers fare from Texas French Toastbr(blackberries, agave syrup and spiced pecans) to Stuffed Quail (served with abrchorizo cornbread waffle and barbecue glaze) and Tomahawk Steak (a massivebrbone-in ribeye for two).
Chef de Cuisine Jonathan Rivera is at the helm at LAW. He's been with thebrFour Seasons since 2003, and he's committed to keeping the menu true to Texas.br“Our state has such amazing farmers, ranchers and fisherman. It's our job tobrkeep the integrity of the ingredients and pay respect to their hard work and dedication,”brhe says. “That's what makes us LAW.”
We ventured to the rolling hills of the Las Colinas five-star golf resortbrto sample some of the menu items over lunch. When we entered the lobby andbrrounded the corner, it was clear: This place was all about Texas. Everythingbrwas subtly sophisticated, from dark hardwood floors to elegant leather andbrsuede throughout. It wasn't just the food that got a revamp after Café on thebrGreen was retired; the atmosphere was completely new, too, with Texas-themedbrart and rustic décor and furnishings.
For Chef Rivera, it's a welcome change. “People don't want to feel stuffybrwhen they eat,” he says. “I love the idea of eating a good meal in a relaxedbrenvironment.”
We settled into a comfortable table overlooking the greens. (With a wallbrof windows, there's not a bad seat in the house.) Our server was quick to greetbrus and present us with menus. After hearing a few enthusiastic recommendations,brwe ordered the Shiner Bock and Sweet Onion Soup as a starter. LAW's rendition isbrdefinitely one to try. We dug our spoons into a thick layer of Brazos Riverbrsmoked gouda, unearthing a swirl of rich, caramelized onions. Too manybrrestaurants serve onion soup that's really just a disappointing broth. Not thisbrone. Each spoonful brimmed with oniony goodness.
The soup was quite filling, but we proceeded to taste what else LAW hadbrto offer. On the “air” side of the menu, we opted for the Beer Can ChickenbrTacos, a dish that happens to be one of the chef's personal favorites. Thebrchicken was indeed moist and succulent, but at $19, this entrée was definitelybron the pricier end for a few lunchtime tacos.
However, we were thoroughly impressed with the $24 Yellow Fin TunabrSandwich. This bite from the “water” section of the menu consisted of a massivebrpiece of seared tuna tucked inside a whole-wheat bun with arugula, a friedbrgreen tomato and zesty jalapeño mayo. Accompanied by a side of crispy sweet potatobrfries, the dish was filling and delicious. We could finish only half.
We washed down our meals with glasses of water, but the wine program atbrLAW is also worth noting. The extensive list pays homage to the Lone StarbrState, including standouts such as Duchman vermentino and Becker Vineyardsbrmerlot. There's also a nice selection of cocktails, including the Zone ofbrTruth, a mix of two types of Patrón, passion fruit, lemon and red pepper.
Since it was a workday, though, we skipped the midday drink and orderedbrdessert instead. A half-dozen treats tempted us, but we settled on the TexasbrBread Pudding. This warm, custardy confection was a sweet ode to Texas, allbrtopped off with a drizzle of bourbon caramel sauce.
Overall, the restaurant is the perfect balance of two things Texasbrtreasures the most: food and hospitality. But don't just take our word forbrit—head to LAW and order your favorites.
Law restaurant
4150 N. MacArthur Blvd.
Irving
972.717.2420