LAW of the Land
Jun 07, 2016 11:53AM
● By Dia
There’s a new restaurant in town, and it has a message: It’s time for Texas food to get back to its roots, y’all. Newly opened in April, LAW Restaurant at the Four Seasons Resort and Club in Las Colinas is an acronym for land, air and water. Here you’ll find fresh meats, poultry and seafood from local ranches, farms and fisheries. Nothing is flown in from other states—it’s just authentic Texas food for hungry Texans.
LAW is the resort’s new signature restaurant, replacing Café on the Green. Touted as a “bold taste of Texas using the finest ingredients sourced from the Lone Star State,” the restaurant features a charming and robust menu. But don’t expect standard chicken-fried steak and barbecue. Instead, think inventive dishes with Texas flavor and flair.
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (as any good hotel restaurant should be), along with a Sunday brunch, LAW offers fare from Texas French Toast (blackberries, agave syrup and spiced pecans) to Stuffed Quail (served with a chorizo cornbread waffle and barbecue glaze) and Tomahawk Steak (a massive bone-in ribeye for two).
Chef de Cuisine Jonathan Rivera is at the helm at LAW. He’s been with the Four Seasons since 2003, and he’s committed to keeping the menu true to Texas. “Our state has such amazing farmers, ranchers and fisherman. It’s our job to keep the integrity of the ingredients and pay respect to their hard work and dedication,” he says. “That’s what makes us LAW.”
We ventured to the rolling hills of the Las Colinas five-star golf resort to sample some of the menu items over lunch. When we entered the lobby and rounded the corner, it was clear: This place was all about Texas. Everything was subtly sophisticated, from dark hardwood floors to elegant leather and suede throughout. It wasn’t just the food that got a revamp after Café on the Green was retired; the atmosphere was completely new, too, with Texas-themed art and rustic décor and furnishings.
For Chef Rivera, it’s a welcome change. “People don’t want to feel stuffy when they eat,” he says. “I love the idea of eating a good meal in a relaxed environment.”
We settled into a comfortable table overlooking the greens. (With a wall of windows, there’s not a bad seat in the house.) Our server was quick to greet us and present us with menus. After hearing a few enthusiastic recommendations, we ordered the Shiner Bock and Sweet Onion Soup as a starter. LAW’s rendition is definitely one to try. We dug our spoons into a thick layer of Brazos River smoked gouda, unearthing a swirl of rich, caramelized onions. Too many restaurants serve onion soup that’s really just a disappointing broth. Not this one. Each spoonful brimmed with oniony goodness.
The soup was quite filling, but we proceeded to taste what else LAW had to offer. On the “air” side of the menu, we opted for the Beer Can Chicken Tacos, a dish that happens to be one of the chef’s personal favorites. The chicken was indeed moist and succulent, but at $19, this entrée was definitely on the pricier end for a few lunchtime tacos.
However, we were thoroughly impressed with the $24 Yellow Fin Tuna Sandwich. This bite from the “water” section of the menu consisted of a massive piece of seared tuna tucked inside a whole-wheat bun with arugula, a fried green tomato and zesty jalapeño mayo. Accompanied by a side of crispy sweet potato fries, the dish was filling and delicious. We could finish only half.
We washed down our meals with glasses of water, but the wine program at LAW is also worth noting. The extensive list pays homage to the Lone Star State, including standouts such as Duchman vermentino and Becker Vineyards merlot. There’s also a nice selection of cocktails, including the Zone of Truth, a mix of two types of Patrón, passion fruit, lemon and red pepper.
Since it was a workday, though, we skipped the midday drink and ordered dessert instead. A half-dozen treats tempted us, but we settled on the Texas Bread Pudding. This warm, custardy confection was a sweet ode to Texas, all topped off with a drizzle of bourbon caramel sauce.
Overall, the restaurant is the perfect balance of two things Texas treasures the most: food and hospitality. But don’t just take our word for it—head to LAW and order your favorites.
4150 N. MacArthur Blvd.